Warning: The information presented here is what I Vince Endter have learned though my own experience, experience of others, conversation with Atos dealers and conversations with Felix and the AIR staff.  Use this information at you own risk.  If there is ever any question, AIR and your Atos dealers are the ones to ask.  If any mistakes are found, I will update them as soon as I can.  Until then, fly safe.

The Vince Report

Landing the Atos

Tail alignment bumps

Atos wheels for the composite basebar      

Tuning the Atos/Stratos             

Clip of tow at Flytec comp
     You can see another glider launching 5 seconds before me.  You might notice that I turn to the right of the trike after launch.  This is because I don't like to fly over those trees to the left until I get higher.
Clip of Bruce Barmakian launching at Greifenberg, Austria
Clip of Bruce landing at Greifenberg, Austria

AIR website 

Sticky Pitch, launching a rigid wing

Pictures of mods and stuff.

Cleat work on basebar.

The Atos manual.

The Atos VR manual.

Atos DHV test data and Safety notices.
(I found this page at the DHV site.  At the bottom of the page there are several safety subjects that look similar to what the FAA calls airworthiness directives.)

Atos spare parts, alternate source

Mission Soaring (California)    Pat purchased all of Ivan's inventory

Cam Helper, cam tool

Composite base tube repair

Bi-annual Checks (every 2 years)

Check your spoiler ropes

Check your wires

Replace all cables and ropes (limiter rope, flap rope etc.)  Felix said it is easier to replace the cables than trying to inspect them their entire length.

Check wing sweep

Check the rib angles (the sail must be on to perform the check)

Visually inspect the sail for worn stitching, holes from wear,  etc.  Small holes and wear marks can be repaired by applying adhesive backed Dacron sail repair tape (available from West Marine).  Larger holes, worn stitching should be repaired by your dealer or a sail shop.  

Inspect all hardware.  Look for cracks in nose lever.  Verify all safety rings are in place.  Look at the torque seal (that colored stuff) on all nuts for signs that the nut has turned.  The torque seal will appear cracked if the nut has cracked.  Check proper operation of the pip pins.  

Remove the sail and inspect the D-cell for any damage.  Minor dents smaller then a quarter that do not crack the outer carbon are ok.  Any cracks in the fiber need to be repaired, cracks will usually appear whitish.  .  Inspect all the rib attachment points for security, try to wiggle them with your hand.  If they move they need to be repaired.  Look closely at the rear of the spar for any cracking along the top and bottom of the spar.  Newer Atos will have a fiberglass layer running the length of the spar.  If there is a crack, the fiberglass will appear white.  Inspect all ribs, play close attention to the #1 ribs.  I have yet to see a #1 rib that does not have some damage from the down tubes.  Squeeze the ribs between your fingers.  They should not crush.  Lubricate the pulleys with lithium grease (white).

Check the webbing that holds the rib cams.  Ron Gleason reported that one of his cut completely in half and two others were cut part of the way and had to be replaced.

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